Step 2: Cleaning the metals.
Capillary action will work properly only when the surfaces of the metals are clean. If they are "contaminated" coated with oil, grease, rust, scale or just plain dirt those contaminants have to be removed. If they remain, they will form a barrier between the base metal surfaces and the brazing materials. An oily base metal, for example, will repel the flux, leaving bare spots that oxidize under heat and result in voids. Oil and grease will carbonize when heated, forming a film over which the filler metal will not flow. And brazing filler metal wont bond to a rusty surface. Cleaning the metal parts is seldom a complicated job, but it has to be done in the right sequence. Oil and grease should be removed first, because an acid pickle solution aimed to remove rust and scale wont work on a greasy surface. (If you try to remove rust or scale by abrasive cleaning, before getting rid of the oil, youll wind up scrubbing the oil, as well as fine abrasive powder, more deeply into the surface.) Start by getting rid of oil and grease. In most cases you can do it very easily either by dipping the parts into a suitable degreasing solvent, by vapor degreasing, or by alkaline or aqueous cleaning. If the metal surfaces are coated with oxide or scale, you can remove those contaminants chemically or mechanically. For chemical removal, use an acid pickle treatment, making sure that the chemicals are compatible with the base metals being cleaned, and that no acid traces remain in crevices or blind holes. Mechanical removal calls for abrasive cleaning. Particularly in repair brazing, where parts may be very dirty or heavily rusted, you can speed the cleaning process by using emery cloth, grinding wheel, or file or grit blast, followed by a rinsing operation. Once the parts are thoroughly clean, its a good idea to flux and braze as soon as possible. That way, theres the least chance for recontamination of surfaces by factory dust or body oils deposited through handling.
Step 3: Fluxing the parts.
Flux is a chemical compound applied to the joint surfaces before brazing. Its use is essential in the brazing process (with a few exceptions noted later.) The reason? Heating a metal surface accelerates the formation of oxides, the result of chemical combination between the hot metal and oxygen in the air. These oxides must be prevented from forming or theyll inhibit the brazing filler metal from wetting and bonding to the surfaces. A coating of flux on the joint area, however, will shield the surfaces from the air, pre- venting oxide formation. And the flux will also dissolve and absorb any oxides that form during heating or that were not completely removed in the cleaning process. How do you apply the flux to the joint? Any way you can, as long as you cover the surfaces completely. Since flux is conventionally made in a paste consistency, its usually most convenient to brush it on. But as production quantities increase, it may be more efficient to apply the flux by dip- ping or dispensing a pre-measured deposit of high viscosity dispensable flux from an applicator gun. Why dispensable flux? Many companies find the repeatable deposit size improves joint consistency, and because typically less flux is used, the amount of residue entering the waste stream is also reduced.
When do you flux? Typically just before brazing, if possible. That way the flux has least chance to dry out and flake off, or get knocked off the parts in handling. Which flux do you use? Choose the one formulated for the specific metals, temperatures and conditions of your brazing application. There are fluxes formulated for practically every need; for example fluxes for brazing at very high temperatures (in the 2000°F/1093°C area), fluxes for metals with refractory oxides, fluxes for long heating cycles, and fluxes for dispensing by automated machines. Fortunately, your inventory problem is considerably simplified by the avail- ability of general-purpose fluxes, such as Handy & Harmans Handy Flux, which is suitable for most typical brazing jobs. (See page 40 for a chart of Handy & Harman/Lucas-Milhaupt fluxes.) Our technical representative can answer any questions you may have and assist you in your choice. How much flux do you use? Enough to last throughout the entire heating cycle. Keep in mind that the larger and heavier the pieces brazed, the longer the heating cycle will take so use more flux. (Lighter pieces, of course, heat up taster and so require less flux.) As a general rule, dont skimp on the flux. Its your insurance against oxidation. Think of the flux as a sort of blotter. It absorbs oxides like a sponge absorbs water. An insufficient amount of flux will quickly become saturated and lose its effectiveness. A flux that absorbs less oxides not only insures a better joint than a totally saturated flux, but it is a lot easier to wash off after the brazed joint is completed. Flux can also act as a temperature indicator, minimizing the chance of overheating the parts. Handy & Harmans Handy Flux, for example, becomes completely clear and active at 1100°F/593°C. At this temperature, it looks like water and reveals the bright metal surface underneath telling you that the base metal is just about hot enough to melt the brazing filler metal.
| Temperature | Appearance of flux |
|---|---|
| 212°F (100°C) | Water boils off. |
| 600°F (315°C) | Flux becomes white and slightly puffy, and starts to "work." |
| 800°F (435°C) | Flux lies against surface and has a milky appearance. |
1100°F (593°C) |
Flux is completely clear and active, looks like water. Bright metal surface is visible underneath, At this point, test the temperature be touching brazing filler metal to base metal, If brazing filler metal melts, assembly is at proper temperature for brazing. |
Weve said that fluxing is an essential step in the brazing operation. This is generally true, yet there are a few exceptions to the rule. You can join copper to copper without flux, by using a brazing filler metal specially formulated for the job, such as Handy & Harmans Sil-Fos or Fos-Flo 7. (The phosphorus in these alloys acts as a fluxing agent on copper.) And you can often omit fluxing if youre going to braze the assembly in a controlled atmosphere. A controlled atmosphere is a gaseous mixture contained in an enclosed space, usually a brazing furnace. The atmosphere (such as hydrogen, nitrogen or dissociated ammonia) completely envelops the assemblies and, by excluding oxygen, prevents oxidation. Even in controlled atmosphere brazing, however you may find that a small amount of flux improves the wetting action of the brazing filler metal.